Lissenden Recollections

Lissenden Gardens is constantly evolving.  Built by the Armstrong Family as a private estate in 1898-06, after over 70 years in their ownership it was eventually sold to developers in 1972.  Thankfully, as result of a highly publicised, two-year lobbying campaign by the enraged residents, the estate finally transitioned to social housing when it was bought byCamden Council under a Compulsory Purchase Order. 

From the 1980s, following a sharp change in the UK’s political landscape and the Thatcher government’s Housing Act reforms, some of the flats moved into private ownership. These days the estate is a mix of social, private and private rental properties. 

What doesn’t change in Lissenden Gardens is the affection for the estate.  Regardless of how we’ve arrived here, we all share the same amenities, staircases, front doors, streets, views and neighbourhood.  What follows is a collection of reminiscences, stories and photos from residents past and present, who love the place they live.

If you would like to add something to these pages please email info@lissendengardens.co.uk. The more the merrier!

Lissenden Gardens - anecdotes

7 Lissenden Mansions, 1940s - 1962

“I always wanted that top floor flat that had a turret, round windows and looked out on the gardens and the road. When I was little and with loads of chutzpah I called on the people who lived there and asked them if I could look out in the round bit. They let me and I made friends with the girl that lived there, Gay who went to Parly Hill!”

“I think you and I were so lucky to grow up in Lissenden Gardens. Such an unusual place, quite unique.”

“I left 7 Lissenden and the back windows, which you can see from your flat, were still cracked from an air raid. That was in 1962. Every year we expected them to blow in. But they stayed there all those years rattling for hundreds of nights! So much for the post war repairs and the laziness of the Armstrong Boys!”

12A and 15 Lissenden Mansions, 1950s - 1983

“My earliest memories of Lissenden are of going to meet my dad at Gospel Oak Station on his way home from work in the city in the 1950s. On the corner of Lissenden Gardens and Mansfield Road (where the flats are now) was a garage, I guess it sold petrol but the only thing I recall is that it seemed a little daring to cut off the corner by running through the forecourt of the garage. Just a couple of yards, I must have been a very law abiding child to see it as a rule-breaking short cut.

Of course everyone remembers Marine Ices in the little hut by the gate onto Hampstead Heath, probably not dating from that time, maybe a little later.

My mother was living in Parliament Hill Mansions towards the end of the war, sharing a job and childcare with her friend. Peg had a baby boy; mum had a girl, both born early in 1944. Peg was French Canadian; her husband was fighting with the Free French army. Their shared job was as a reporter on the Daily Worker, both were Communist Party members.  Rosalind Bailey mentions in her book ‘a group of people connected with the Unity Theatre’ associated with the flats; my mother was one of them, recalling the actors and retaining friendships . Mum and Peg’s flat was number 12A; no flat was given the unlucky number 13. I don’t know if they were living there when the end row of the block was demolished by a bomb in 1940, probably not as she didn’t share any stories of what would have been a significant memory.

My mother used to put the pram containing my baby sister out onto the front balcony ‘to get some fresh air’, or keep her out of the way for a while. The baby would be held into the pram by her reins, fixed to the side of the pram. One day there was a knock at the front door of number 12A, a stranger had rushed up the stars to inform mum that her baby had unhooked herself, climbed out of the pram and was climbing up the wrought iron railings of the balcony, collecting a small crowd of anxious onlookers in the street below.

By the time my younger brother was born in 1950 our family had moved to a house in Swains Lane. I had little contact with anyone In Lissenden Gardens for a while – though we did have a mother’s help who lived in one of the prefabs in Glenhurst Avenue. My sister had school friends who lived in Lissenden, we both went to Parliament Hill School, she as a grammar schoolgirl and me as the first intake of a comprehensive school. Later, as a teenager, I was a baby sitter for the actor Graham Crowden and his lovely family who lived high up in Parliament Hill Mansions.  

Several years later, living in 1968 in a tiny flat in Muswell Hill with a new baby and a part-time teacher husband, I discovered that flats in Lissenden were to be had at a low rent, providing one handed over £200 to the Armstrong brothers.  We swiftly persuaded my brother to lend us his recent tax rebate, which was then handed on to the landlords. 15 Lissenden Mansions was then ours, a four bedroom flat at a rent that was slightly lower than the Muswell Hill bedsit.

When we moved in the few items left behind by the last tenant indicated a previous occupancy of many years. We quickly threw away Victorian lightshades, a wooden towel rack, an old bread bin, all of which I would have treasured a few years later. My husband built a sofa, I covered it with orange fabric. We had an oval dining table which didn’t fit into the wonderful circular corner space, so we sawed a piece out of the middle to make it a circular dining table. The 1950s fireplace was covered with a homemade ‘wall unit’ containing shelves for TV, tape recorder and record deck.

The kitchen I think had been little altered since the flats were built. It had a very large dresser, with cupboards below and shelves above. There was a coal boiler, heating the water in a tank fixed above the kitchen sink – a butler sink with a foldable wooden draining board, foldable as when in place it blocked the back door onto the balcony. The coal store filled most of the space on the balcony. The coalman delivered sacks of coal carrying it up two flights of stairs, in through the front door, down the narrow L-shaped corridor past every room of the flat, across the kitchen and out of the back door before shooting it into the ‘cellar’. Also on the back balcony was the rubbish lift, little more than a shelf which was hauled up and down by ropes attached to it. I cannot remember who operated the lift, I think at one time a porter of some kind would pull the lift up to each floor for residents to put out their rubbish and blow a whistle when doing so. By the time of our residency maybe we operated it ourselves.

Brown was then fashionable colour; I painted the bathroom entirely dark brown including all the exposed pipework, thought it rather stylish until my dad commented that it looked like a gas chamber. Did I immediately repaint? I can’t remember. 

Prams in those days were large, heavy, ‘coach built’ things, so ours had to be hauled up and down flights of stairs for any outing that included a baby. (Baby slings were almost unknown, and when seen were regarded as primitive, and probably not very good for the baby). On one occasion the pram (without the baby in it) slipped out of my husband’s grip and flew down to crash into the ground floor front door. 

The block of flats must have been unrefurbished when we were approached by a film company. A semi-derelict block of flats was needed for a brief shot and we were asked for our permission to cover the outside of the lowest two floors in rusty old corrugated iron, just for one day which was all it took to film the few seconds activity while the actor ran past the building. I think we were slipped £15 in cash by the film crew.

In 1972 my husband was offered a year’s contract teaching in Warwickshire so we asked our landlord, the Armstrongs, if we could continue our tenancy and sub-let the flat for a year. This was agreed, though our absence extended for a further year, so we were not around when the Tenant’s Association was active, the estate was sold to a developer and then on to Camden.

We moved back and were involved in the Association’s negotiations with Camden about the refurbishment of the estate. I remember still living in our flat on the second floor while the ground floor flat was gutted. Our upstairs artist neighbour was expecting a visit from his Japanese dealer and discovered that the gentleman had had to enter the building through a knocked down window space, walk across dust and tools in what had been the bedroom, down the hallway and out through the front door of the ground floor flat before he could walk up the main stairs to Anthony the artist’s front door.

Before the refurbishment began our neighbour upstairs was curious about the brisk wind that that cooled her when she was sitting in the bath; she peered over the bath taps to discover daylight beneath the windowsill.  Surveys of the building revealed dry rot in all the bathrooms from ground to top floor.  All our bathrooms were ‘removed’, the doors locked so that we could not mistakenly enter the bathroom and fall three floors down. We had no access to a bath, washbasin or – more importantly – toilet, for several weeks! How on earth did we manage? I think the workmen fixing the dry rot had access to an empty ground floor flat for their amenities. We were encouraged to use their toilet, but my husband reported it as being unspeakably dirty, so I don’t think we used it. Our discovery of the public bath house within the Prince of Wales Road swimming baths was a blessing.

We were offered the chance to alter the layout of our flat but its corner situation offered little opportunity for new arrangement. Certainly in our block the front door brasswork was removed, maybe by the workmen for the refurb, and never seen again; which curiously   coincided with the opening of Amazing Grates shop nearby, selling front door brasswork.

The promised few months of relocation stretched to a year at 65 Lissenden, a top floor flat with a wonderful view across nearby rooftops. All our carpets spent the year rolled up, our curtains didn’t fit the windows, and I remember with embarrassment the distress of a long-established elderly resident who had been moved into the flat below.  Our washing machine, which was not plumbed in, leaked, and poured draining water onto the bare boards of kitchen floor, through into flat below.

Moving back after the refurb I was appointed a block rep, I remember visiting newly refurbished flats, where the delighted tenants were comfortably roasting as they had their new central heating on full blast.

We moved out in 1983, but not very far away from Lissenden Gardens  - into a house in Glenhurst Avenue that I had looked down into from the back balcony at No. 65.”

Janet Male

Artwork: Janet Male

 

Lissenden has always loved a party. In the ‘70s the Halloween Party on the tarmac by the cottage was a highlight of the year for estate kids. Janet found this poster in her archive. We can’t be sure of the year but it given Janet’s family history (see above) it’s most likely to be sometime during the 1970s.

Perhaps it’s time to resurrect this poster and party for the current generation?

12A Clevedon Mansions, 1971-1976

When I moved into 12A Clevedon Mansions in December 1971, I was the newly divorced single mother of two young children.  We had been camping in a freezing, unfurnished room in Parkway, so having a three-bedroomed flat was bliss.  After a difficult time, the children needed reassurance, so slept in the same room in bunk beds built by a friend.  Then my daughter moved into her own room, where each wall had to be painted a different colour, in various shades of pink, red and purple!  I also had a student from the Royal Free in the spare bedroom: she paid me £5 a week and did some babysitting as well.  My own rent was £326 a year. According to the on-line UK inflation calculator, £100 in 1972 is the equivalent of about £1400!

Before being given a tenancy agreement, I had to hand over what became known as illegal ‘key money’.  Half had to be paid in cash to the Estate Office (no receipt provided) and half by cheque to the outgoing tenant.  There was already one test case going on to prosecute the Armstrongs and I was asked if I’d be interested in being another. The thought of getting my money back was a great incentive, so I agreed.  When Mrs Armstrong knew I was pursuing my case, she harangued me bitterly and loudly in the street one day.  The whole thing dragged on for months: the first case didn’t come to court until November 1972.  

I was teaching at Parliament Hill, which made my life a whole lot easier. I could see the playground from my kitchen window! Along with most children on the estate, my two went to Gospel Oak where the legendary Ron Lendon was the Head.  It was a huge bonus to live in a ready-made and welcoming community.  We were constantly in and out of friends’ flats and knew that the children were safe on the estate. People looked out for each other. On one memorable evening, my boyfriend at the time punched through the glass panels on the front door in a rage. The very respectable older couple who lived above us came down to see what was happening and took the children up to their flat.  They must have thought I was leading a very rackety life but there was never a word of criticism and their help is something I have never forgotten.  My daughter was even invited to be a bridesmaid at their daughter’s wedding! 

Lifelong friendships were made in Lissenden Gardens.  I was riveted by Jan Male’s recollections on this website. I moved out in 1976 when I remarried but she and I are still friends fifty years after I moved in – and so are our daughters!

Bridget Patterson

extract from one of the solicitor's letters which sums up the legal case on the key money - Bridget Patterson

72 Lissenden Mansions

Lissenden Gardens Tenants Association – the beginnings, 1972 onwards

The Lissenden community was urgently brought together in 1972, by an emergency – the sale of the whole estate by the Armstrongs, the family who had built it at the beginning of the century.  We were suddenly, all 237 flats, in the hands of apparent crooks, who made money by bullying people out of their flats and selling the properties off at huge profits.  These were cowboy times, with clear Goodies and Baddies, and within a few weeks of the estate sale the residents were mobilised in self-defence to form the Lissenden Gardens Tenants Association (LGTA).

We were an odd mixture - families, professional and working people, immigrants from before the war and refugees from after it - who had all been living quiet, sometimes solitary lives as one by one we moved into this rather faded private estate.  But when action was needed it didn’t take long to get us all together.  There were people with specialist skills, people who knew how The System worked, and people willing to put their own time in for the sake of everyone.  I was one of the young ones who joined in and learned very quickly about people, power and politics, and it changed my life.

My wife and I, a photographer and a teacher with two small children, hesitated to volunteer when our neighbours so clearly knew what they were doing.  The leaders of the newly formed LGTA were individuals with expertise in local politics, business, social work, law, advertising, journalism, and they built the immediate policies for the defence of the community, but there was room for volunteers – there always is.  For example, the Tenants’ Committee needed a secretary.  Mildred Levison, at the time working for an old-fashioned (i.e. honest) local estate agency, volunteered.  Within the first few years in the role she began to realise her own capability, and in time she graduated from taking minutes and making cakes for committee meetings, to working in Local Government, eventually becoming Director of Housing for the Borough of Barnet.  Mind you, Mildred’s fatcake (a cream-laden festival of fat) continued to be regularly served at committee meetings, a masterpiece of cake-baking and a dietician’s nightmare.

This was an era when huge profits were to be made by breaking up estates and selling flats, and ownership and management became a field in which shady operators made bigger profits and bought out the honest operators.  Before this, estate agents were regarded as trustworthy, and property owners generally fair, but during the early ‘70s all that changed.  As a member of the LGTA I worked with my neighbour Richard Conquest, a mature student working on a PhD at the London School of Economics, to help other estates which were owned by the same company that had bought ours from the Armstrongs.  Richard traced their ownership at Companies House, and we visited the estates to help them form tenants’ associations and resist exploitation, sharing the experience we had gained from our struggle. 

The housing crisis of the time brought us into contact with other activists, like the squatters movement and their alternative newspaper, the Gutter Press, a thorn in the side of Islington Council.  It was a swift political education, bringing many kinds of people together.  Centrepoint, the tower block in Tottenham Court Road, had been built but left vacant for 10 years.  Its owners had decided as long as it was empty its value was growing faster than the rent earned by letting people in.  A well-organised group of politically-aware homeless people moved in and drew national attention to the housing crisis.  After a while there was court action to evict them and one Saturday morning our phone lines buzzed: ‘They’re coming out this morning!’. Dozens of us from Lissenden were there with the crowd and the media to see their dignified exit. 

Some of the squatters were not so needy.  One of the flats in Parliament Hill Mansions was squatted by a group evicted from a large house in Haverstock Hill.  One of them had brought her piano with her, and left her husband at home, where he was a housemaster at a well-known public school.

Then, as now, we were a very mixed community in Lissenden, not least in political views.  During one local election in the crisis era, Lissenden had the committee rooms for all four major political parties, Labour, Conservative, Liberal and Communist, and all four of those tenants worked cheerfully together on our tenants committee  Of course the underlying policy was a matter of divergent political opinion, but our local situation narrowed down the options which we could aim for.  As well as the final decision to get ourselves bought by Camden Council, and to become council tenants by our own choice, Tim Miller (who lived with his family in the flat above mine) devised a policy for home ownership, the ‘Lissenden Formula’, which he presented to the then Conservative government.  Some of it passed into government policy over the next 20 years - the option of part-buy part-rent - but he also proposed that once sold, council properties could only be sold back to the council, thus protecting social housing stock. Unfortunately this suggestion was abandoned by the policy makers.

Following our successful campaign, and the estate’s move to council ownership,, the LGTA’s experience of collective action gave us a unique ability to speak to our new landlord face to face.  There were long negotiations over what to do with these 65-year-old unmodernised blocks.  The council formula dictated one expensive and socially destructive policy, but we persuaded them to spend less and do less damage to the precious community structure.  The estate got a reputation with the council for being serious and active in ‘public consultation’, all too often just a nice gesture, a box to be ticked and then ignored.  Indeed, still today the fight to raise the standards of management and maintenance is never-ending, for our own sake and for the whole o4f the borough’s housing.  Current national housing problems may lead to fresh crises needing new solutions, but in the end national government policy limits what the most well-intentioned local authority can do.

Grassroots support in Lissenden was massive in the early days of the LGTA.  During the initial year or two of fighting the new owners and resisting their agents, the committee could call a general meeting in Gospel Oak School hall and be sure that the majority of the 237 flats would be represented, filling the hall.  It was exciting to look out of our windows on those evenings and see people streaming down the road and around the corner.  The short walk to the school would be spent in joyful conversation with neighbours, old and young, most of whom had previously only known one another by sight.  From these origins, many activities developed which brought people together.  The Lissenden Players started to perform Old Time Music Hall shows, with many taking part and many more coming to enjoy the shows.  We were of mixed ability, but there was great warmth between players and audiences, and we did charity performances in the wider district.  When council tenants began to arrive there was a welcome influx of young families.  Sports groups began.  An annual rounders game, more a picnic on the Fields than any kind of competitive sport; a children’s football club, which had difficulty raising a team and lost every game, but brought several families out to socialise.  Hallowe’en was the cue for a big children’s party on the tennis court, which even at that time was better suited for party games than for tennis.  This was before the American-style trick-or treat made Hallowe’en into a private enterprise feast of costumes and candy, and in those days we had more old-fashioned bobbing for apples and party games.

In the 1970s the national housing crisis brought together all the political groups to work for the security of the Lissenden community, and we took the remarkable step of choosing to go into Council ownership.  Thanks to the strong roots of the community, the tradition of working together remains alive and well on the estate.  A steady supply of new families and a backbone of longer-term residents put a lot in and get a lot out, with the continuing aim of the comfort and the security of the whole estate.  Although I have recently moved away, my daughter has returned, drawn back by the spirit of Lissenden, and I’m proud to still have a share in what is continuing today.

Richard Pearce

for information about the current LGTA click here.